Emulsifiers & Surfactants

AVOMULS® LOW

  • INCI NAME- Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
           

AVOMULS® LOW is a liquid non-ionic Oil in Water emulsifying system based on a unique combination of a polyglycerol ester with the isomeric form of vegetable fatty acids and unsaponifiables. It forms very stable liquid crystals emulsions equipped with exceptional and unique sensorial properties that put it, along with OLEAMULS® LOW at the forefront of the new generation of emulsifiers.
AVOMULS® LOW is specifically designed to address the strictest requirements of formulators of natural cosmetics. It claims PEG-free, soap-free, palm-free, phosphate-free, Vegan and COSMOS compliance.
AVOMULS® LOW creates low viscosity emulsions and ensures an effective emulsifying action even in cold processes. The percentage of interlamellar water in this liquid-crystal structure can reach up to 70% and is immediately available from the moment the structure breaks once applied on the skin resulting in a particularly refreshing and light skin feel.
AVOMULS® LOW presents a strong pro-inflammatory activity as demonstrated by a highly significant decrease of the IL-8 levels equal to 63%.

AVOMULS® LOW can be used to prepare emulsions through cold-processing, with no need to heat the phases, provided that all of their ingredients are liquids. Simple devices for mixing/homogenising can be used. In such cases, once the lipophilic ingredients have been combined with the emulsifier, simply add in the aqueous phase while stirring and using the turbo-emulsifier.
It is recommended to operate under vacuum, because the speed of the turbine generates air that may remain trapped in the product.
The emulsions created are stable, fresh, and offer a pleasant sensation of lightness, even when high quantities of oleaginous substances are present.

Dosage level 3,5 – 5%

Specifications

AppearanceViscous oily liquid
ColorAmber
OdorCharacteristic
pH5.0 – 7.0
Dry residue≥ 94%
Acid number15 max. (mg KOH/g)
Saponification number120 – 140
HLB12 (Experimental)

In vitro evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity
The anti-inflammatory activity of AVOMULS® LOW was evaluated in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), stimulated with tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) choose as a proinflammatory stimulus, measuring the inteleukin-8 (IL-8) levels which is a direct and reliable marker of inflammation.
The two highest product concentrations that were found to be non-cytotoxic were tested on keratinocytes: 0.0039% and 0.0078% (both with a cell viability > 80%)
AVOMULS® LOW presents a strong anti-inflammatory activity, as demonstrated by the highly significant decrease of the IL-8 levels equal to 26% with the lowest tested concentration (0.0039%) and to 63% with the highest (not irritant) tested concentration (0.0078%).




Benefits
• Made from plant-derived raw materials, Palm Oil free.
• For low viscosity liquid crystals emulsions as an alternative to PEG emulsifiers.
• It can be used through cold-processing technique, with no need to heat phases, if all ingredients are liquids. This process is environmentally friendly, saving time and energy.
• Compatible with all active ingredients.
• The emulsion obtained is stable, silky, fresh, pleasant to apply and resistant to variations in temperature.
• Pleasantly light and silky sensation, even when high quantities of oleaginous substances are present. Eudermic properties with moisturizing and nourishing effects.
• Anti-inflammatory action. Up to 63% of reduction of IL-8 level.
• Soluble in plant-derived oils, fatty alcohols, and in fatty acids and their esters. Miscible with mineral oils.

APPLICATIONS

Cosmetics

• Fluid emulsions (cleansing milks, after-shaves, make-up removers etc.)
• Face serums