Emulsifiers & Surfactants

SESAMULS® OW

  • INCI NAME- Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (and) Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil (and) Malic Acid
           

SESAMULS® OW is an Oil in Water, COSMOS approved and “PEG-free” emulsifier specifically designed to make liquid crystals emulsions, capable of incorporating up to 70% of high-polarity and medium polarity natural lipids.
SESAMULS® OW was created with the specific purpose of providing formulators with a 100% plant-derived system that could replace traditional combinations of primary emulsifier + dimethicone.
Emulsions formulated with SESAMULS® OW confers dimethicone-like sensory effect providing rich, velvety yet powdery skin-feel.
An “in vivo” efficacy study was implemented to detect the capability of SESAMULS OW® in boosting skin hydration.

The recommended procedure is as follows:
• Add SESAMULS® OW to a portion of the aqueous phase (about 2/3) and heat it to 65° C.
• Melt the oleaginous phase and slowly add in the portion of the aqueous phase that contains the emulsifier, stirring vigorously all the while.
• Proceed to form the emulsion in the usual fashion.
• Process it using a combined agitator/turbo-emulsifier. Homogenise the mixture intensely.
• Stir with moderate intensity while cooling.
• Add in any heat-sensitive ingredients while stirring with moderate intensity and homogenise the mixture.

Dosage level
3 – 5% in cosmetic milks and lotions
4 – 6% in creams

Specifications

AppearancePellets
ColorIvory
OdorCharacteristic
pH6.0 – 8.0
Melting point55 - 60°C
Acid number28 max. (mg KOH/g)
Saponification number140 – 160
HLB12 (Experimental)

Benefits
• 100% plant-derived raw materials, Cetyl alcohol RSPO certified, Malic Acid obtained from apple juice through a proprietary physical process.
• For dimethicone-like texture emulsions manufactured via heated processing technique in alternative to the Oil in Water (OW) PEG emulsifier.
• Compatible under extreme anionic and cationic conditions across a wide range of pH values (pH 3-9).
• Strong stability and excellent resistance to hydrolysis.
• Eudermic properties due to the presence of sesame oil. High skin absorption with the effect of reducing water-loss
• Proven high hydratant properties
• Excellent compatibility with a wide range of emollients
• Easy to use, it is fully dispersible in water and, when melted, miscible in oils.
• Improves fragrance yield in the emulsion.
• Easy to use, it is fully dispersible in warm water and miscible in vegetal and mineral oils.
• Good density, limited thixotropic behavior and stable viscosity over time. Very low sensitivity to variations in temperature.

APPLICATIONS

Cosmetics

• Day & night creams • Cosmetic milks or lotions • Sensitive skin products • Mature skin products